The A-to-Zs of Central Oregon: U is for UMPQUA

Umpqua National Forest. Photo by Justin Hartney.

If you live in Oregon, there's no doubt you've seen the name: Umpqua! According to The Oregon Encyclopedia, the name "Umpqua" derives from the Native American term for "place along the river." Other theories are that Umpqua may mean "thundering water," "dancing water," or to "bring across the river."

THE PEOPLE

In the early 1800s, fur traders working for the still-existent Hudson's Bay Company were the first non-natives encountered by the Umpqua and other Oregon native peoples. 

Tragically, the Umpqua suffered greatly from a smallpox epidemic in 1838, which wiped out huge numbers of their population. 

The Umpqua people are a combination of several different tribes inhabiting the present-day Oregon area. Today, the Umpqua people are comprised of the Cow Creek Tribe, the Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua Tribe, and the Siuslaw Indians.

Drawing of an Umpqua man, by Alred Thomas Agate.

North Umpqua River. Photo by Renee Seeker. 

The Umpqua has two main tributaries, aptly named the North Umpqua River and the South Umpqua River.

Both forks rise in the Southern Oregon Cascades, and flow generally west for over 100 miles to join together near the city of Roseburg.

Toketee Falls in Umpqua National Forest, by Sights Better Seen. 

The North Umpqua (pictured above) is famous for its emerald hue. 

The North Umpqua is derived from the year's snowmelt. The melting snow is trapped in volcanic soil and pumice, and released during the summer months, resulting in consistently cooler temperatures.

During the summer the flow of the river is approximately 20 times that of the nearby South Umpqua.

THE RIVER

A British explorer named the river "Umpqua" in 1825 after hearing the term used among the local tribes in the region. 

Today, the Umpqua River is known to have some of the world's best fly-fishing, salmon fishing, and sturgeon fishing. The river is famous for its small-mouth bass, striped bass, and shad population. 

The Umpqua River. Photo from Fishing the Klamath. 

There are many other attractions along the river, like the Umpqua Hot Springs, and Toketee Falls within the National Forest. 

Umpqua Hot Springs, by The Outdoor Project.

Umpqua National Forest. Photo from the USDA website.

THE NATIONAL FOREST

There's the 983,129-acre national forest just southeast of Central Oregon. It shares a border with our beloved Crater Lake National Park! This national forest has tons of great attractions within its borders, and is home to over 250 wildlife species! 

Pine Marten in Umpqua National Forest. Photo by Armchair Explorer. 

The Umpqua National Forest has three different Wilderness areas: Boulder Creek Wilderness, Mount Thielsen Wilderness, and the Rogue Umpqua Divide Wilderness. 

Photo from Ashland Daily Photo. 

MOUNT THIELSEN

Mount Thielsen Wilderness is 26, 593 acres, was carved by glaciers, and contains the 9,182-foot-tall Mount Thielsen. The pointy jagged summit is commonly referred to as the "Lightning Rod of the Cascades” due to frequent lighting strikes.

The frequent lighting strikes have resulted in a mass of fulgurites (glassy rock) to form on the top 10 feet of Mount Thielsen's peak. The lighting literally melts the surface of the rock to leave a glassy sheen! 

Soda Springs, in the Boulder Creek Wilderness of the Umpqua National Forest. Photo from the USFS. 

The name "Umpqua" can be found all throughout Oregon, but perhaps the tastiest namesake is the delicious local ice cream!

To visit the Umpqua National Forest, check out Travel Oregon's list of campsites, rentals, and pertinent wilderness information. 

The A-to-Zs of Central Oregon: T is for THUNDEREGGS

Photo by David Rix Eibonvale

Photo by Tom Benson

OREGON'S STATE ROCK

This week we're talking about Oregon's State Rock: the very beautiful (and very strange) Thunderegg! The Thunderegg was elected to be Oregon's official State Rock in 1965 by the state's Legislative Assembly. Oregon has more than a few "rockhounds," and Central Oregon has become a popular destination for rock enthusiasts interested in digging up and collecting these special treasures.

Uploaded by OPB on 2014-03-07.

FORM & FORMATION

There's still some speculation about how these rocks are formed. Some say these nodule-like rocks are formed within layers of volcanic ash, in gas pockets that served as molds. Over a long period of time, the gas cools, and the gap fills with water percolating through the porous rock formation. It is said that the water that fills these spaces is rich with large quantities of quartz, resulting in unique formations.

Geodes, agates, and Thundereggs can be colorful, and are often used decoratively

Thundereggs generally have a center composed of chalcedony, with deposits of agate, jasper or opal. Rockhounds have also encountered Thundereggs with quartz and gypsum crystals, as well as various other mineral growths and inclusions. 

Geodes are always hollow inside. 

These rough, round geological formations are usually about the size of a baseball and are not necessarily synonymous with geodes or agates. Where geodes are always characterized by a hollow center, Thundereggs can have a hollow center, or be completely solid all the way through. 

Agates are a more general type of rock formation. Agates are simply a hard variety of chalcedony, typically with a banded appearance of several repeating lines. A Thunderegg is just one of many forms an agate can take. 

Richardson's Rock Ranch. Photos by RoomtoRamble.com

WHERE ARE THEY? 

These super cool formations are highly concentrated in Central Oregon (of course), with but can also be found across the world. 

One of the most popular destinations to hunt for Thundereggs is the Richardson Rock Ranch in Madras, Oregon. This place has been in business for 44 years, making it possible for rockhounds to root around in the dusty desert hills to see what you can find! Side note: they also have a few amazing peacocks strutting throughout their property. 

Though Central Oregon is definitely the most well-known, and most highly-concentrated site for Thundereggs, these rock formations have been found in Germany, Ethiopia, Poland, Mexico, Argentina, Turkey, and more. 

The Legend of the Thunderbird

The native people of Central Oregon are said to have believed that these rocks are the eggs of the Thunder Spirits, which took the shape of giant birds roosting at the top of Mount Jefferson and Mount Hood. According to this legend, thunderstorms occurred when the Thunderbirds would fight among themselves, hurling their eggs at each other in anger, ultimately embedding in the ground. It is for this reason, according to this legend, that the eggs are scattered all across this region. 

The Native American Legend of the Thunderbird

The A-to-Zs of Central Oregon: S is for the SAGE GROUSE

Male Greater Sage Grouse

One of Central Oregon's most beloved (and most unique) bird species is the Greater Sage Grouse, or Centrocercus urophasianus. These fascinating birds have incredibly intricate mating rituals... with some pretty eye-catching anatomy to match. Their presence in the American West has led them to become a sort of mascot, prized by Native American Culture, and spoke of in an almost mythical way by birding enthusiasts. As the name implies, the Sage Grouse is entirely reliant on its habit of Sagebrush, a habitat which is shrinking rapidly. 

PHYSICAL ATTRIBUTES

As is often the case in bird species, the females sport a much simpler plumage than the males. The females are small, with brown and white feathers, scattered with bits of black. They are smaller as well, averaging about 22-23 inches in length, in between a crow and a goose. Both genders sport black bellies, and mottled brown and white feathers on the wings.

Male Sage Grouse with gular sacs extended

GREAT DANCE MOVES

Female Greater Sage Grouse

The male Greater Sage Grouse, on the other hand, cuts quite a voluptuous figure. He has a rich crest of white feathers adorning his chest and neck, bright yellow markings above his eyes, and an ornate fan of feathers on his backside. 

The most unique characteristic of the males is easily the two yellow balloons that expand from his chest when he makes a mating call, as you can see in the video below. These 'balloons' are called gular sacs, and are an important part of the male's ability to attract females

The mating dance of the Greater Sage Grouse is mesmerizing, bizarre, and attracts tons of eager bird-watchers from all over the world every year. We must caution against seeking out the Sage Grouse to see this mating dance, due to the Sage Grouse's dwindling population-- we don't want anyone ruining the mood!

HABITAT AND MATING

The Greater Sage Grouse is picky about where it chooses to call home, only residing in certain locations across the Intermountain West. Around 60% of its diet consists of Sagebrush, and during winter it is all the bird eats. This makes it a sensitive species, when the habitat disappears, so does the bird. 

During the spring mating season, groups of grouse around 70 in size gather in ancestral mating grounds call Leks. They return to the same mating grounds every year, and the males will gather in a large clearing. For the entirety of the season, males will dance and battle for the prime spot in the Lek, and the attention of the females.  The dominant male will be located in the center of the area. Females return every day to judge the males, and will only choose one, so competition is fierce. 

Sage Grouse habitat: dry, sage-covered lands.

IN DANGER

The Greater Sage Grouse is under extreme threat, with an 80% decline in population over the past 100 years! Much of this has to do with habitat destruction. Development of the sagebrush seas created limited habitat. This can be especially impactful if a mating area is destroyed, as generations of Grouse will return to the same mating area every year, even if they find roads and building in place of the Sage and open fields they need.

A deflated male Greater Sage Grouse